Costume #5: Orange and Beige

Episodes:

"Phage"

"Ex Post Facto"

"Heroes and Demons"

"Jetrel"

"Projections"

"Twisted"

This is the fifth costume worn by Kes. I acquired this at the very end of the IAW auctions through a private deal with them directly. When I picked it up I was very surprised to see that it came with three of the over-vests but only one shirt and jumpsuit. There is a company that makes it their business to cut up one of a kind costumes and any other they can get their hands on, glue the tiny piece of fabric to a trading card and sell them off. They claim to have one of these costumes but from what I have seen they only have an undershirt and not the over-vest or jumpsuit. Bad enough but not the end of the world.

The costume was seen a handful of times but is definitely one of the best. Super colorful and vibrant even in person.

Autopsy

Here is the standard 4 view layup showing all sides. This costume differs in one way from the rest in that the jumpsuit has feet sewn in. The rest of her costumes that I have seen have a standard cuff with an elastic band that went under the boot between the heel and sole. This pulls the cuff over the top of the boot and keeps it there. Most shoes worn by her had a two inch heel and high sides like a low cut boot but the ones for this costume had very low sides so that's probably why they elected to have the jumpsuit go inside.

There is also a square that has been cut out of the top of the left foot. Maybe for a color sample or maybe a comfort issue of some sort. The soles of both are very dirty and the left one is worn through at the heel. This jumpsuit definitely saw a ton of use.

Here is a look at the tag inside of the over-vest.

Each over-vest I received was marked as #1, #2 or #3. One of them had pins in it to be altered and a costumers hang tag that read, "Not this one, hangs funny" which I believe refers to the way the zipper bunched up at the bottom.

Costumers hang tag, no idea where the other jumpsuit is or why the undershirt isn't listed.

Outer vest removed to reveal beige undershirt with spandex midsection for a tight fit.

A look at the tag inside of the shirt and jumpsuit. 

NOTE: This is actually an important part of collecting. The actors name should be written inside of the costume, otherwise it may have been used by a stand-in for lighting tests or stunts etc. To have the lead actors's name inside the garment is the best way to be sure it was a hero piece. 

Inside the shirt you can clearly see makeup left over from production.

That's all for this one. Thanks again for putting up with the wait.                                                                                                                          

Costume #1: Brown

Episodes:

"Caretaker Part 2"

This is the first costume worn by the character Kes and was seen during Neelix's negotiation to have her released. She appears from around a corner with a black eye and bloody lip, having spent much time as a slave to the Kazon.

The costume looks olive green in the screen capture above (thanks to Trekcore for the image) but the component's colors are actually more of a brown and beige. The scene is very saturated to give the look of a harsh environment. You can see the true colors more clearly in the next frame when they are on the ship although her leggings look gray now - which isn't the case in person.

She quickly looses the black eye and changes into the Ruby and Tan outfit for most of the episode and that's the last we see of this tattered costume.

Autopsy

Here is a 4 view picture of the costume fully assembled. Pretty simple but it has been weathered, ripped and distressed to show a fair amount of age but still has the look of the Ocompa/Kes style.

This costume was not layered together in the same way that her other costumes are. In other cases, the outer layer is usually sturdy and thicker with the light taffeta undershirt over a jumpsuit. Here they chose to put the fragile undershirt on top and the thicker layer under it. I guess it makes it look more worn. 

The top fragile layer removed to expose the second layer.

    

The very thick jumpsuit, much like the one on her purple costume. It's almost like neoprene and heavy. The knees have been thoroughly worked over.

Here we see the tag of the second layer. Her name is written again on another tag inside the jumpsuit. We can also see another color change from this angle and that the second layer has a "spice" pattern to it. The overall color is produced by a brownish color with black flecks. This fabric is also used on the "Ruby and Tan" under suit in a slightly more vibrant color.

So that wraps up the Pilot episode costume, hope you enjoyed it.

Costume #4: Purple

Episodes:

"Time and Again"

"The Cloud"

"Prime Factors"

"Cathexis"

"37's"

"Projections"

"Tattoo"

This is the Fourth costume worn by Kes. Ever since this costume came up for auction through the infamous IAW Ebay auctions I regretted not going after it - I actually think I missed seeing it completely until after that week's auctions had ended and figured this one was gone into the ether forever.

A few months later I accidentally matched the Ebay user name of the winner with a member of the "Star Trek Props, Costumes & Auction" forum and asked him if he'd consider selling it. Of course the answer was a polite no with the promise of giving me first shot if he ever decided to part with the costume. Fast forward two years and I can now add this wonderful piece to my collection.

This costume is from the first season of "Voyager" and is seen in the first few episodes immediately after the initial two-parter.

As with the previously posted costume there were two versions of this piece. The first one appeared only once in the episode, "Time and Again" and features a tall collar on the outer sweater and sits high on the shoulders. The neck opening is the only part of the costume that is different from the later version as far as I can tell.




Here we have the altered, shorter collar as seen in, "The Cloud" and in subsequent episodes. This was achieved by simply rolling the very top of the collar inside and hand stitched it down. They also added a stitch or two to the bottom of the vertical opening making it shorter as well. It's kind of a bummer as it looked awesome the way it was but probably fell inward and had to be fixed constantly, oh well. That's the way it sits today.


The other thing of note is that I firmly believe that there was only one outer sweater made, or at least filmed. There are some very specific details in the fabric and stitching which are present on both version as seen in screen caps from every episode in which it is seen. It's not definitive but I am almost positive that while it there may have been another made, this is the one used for most of the filming. Whether or not this applies to the rest of the costume, I can not say.

Autopsy

Here is a 4 view picture of the costume fully assembled. Not much of interest to report as it's construction is fairly straight forward. It is however extremely well tailored and each piece barely fits over the layer below which is largely responsible for it's overall tailored look. It has seams and finish details in places that I have not seen on any other "Kes" costume leaving this as one of most well constructed.


The outer sweater has a very long zipper (which does not open at both ends) so the actress can put it on over their head. It is then tucked up inside where the tail end is snapped in two places to prevent it from falling down during wear.

After the snaps are released the zipper can be fully opened and the outer sweater can be removed. Note that you can clearly see the part of the collar that has been rolled in and sewn down. Also, there is a significant amount of makeup on the front edge of the collar. Some do not like this aspect of costume collecting but I think it adds to the provenance of a piece as is clear evidence of it's repeated use.

Another cool detail of this costume is the Velcro used to attach the outer sweater to the shoulders of the taffeta piece directly under it. If you look closely you can see one of the snaps for the zipper at the corner of the sweater.

With the sweater removed you can now see the purple undershirt - front and back shown below.

With this opened you can see clearly a spandex panel that has been sewn in to the undershirt to keep the cloth tight around the waist.

A closer look at that spandex panel!

And the Velcro for the sweater!

The undershirt reveals the wet suit-like jumpsuit. The panels on this are extensive and it is quite thick unlike some of her other costumes. This must have fit Jennifer like a glove and was probably a little hot and uncomfortable under the studio lights. The mannequin is rigid and shows the seams pretty badly here but I'd suspect that this smooths out when it is worn by a person.

A closer look at the panel details. Even the sleeves and neck have nicely rolled edges that look great with this thick spandex material.

Down at the feet the is a stirrup made of the same material and a flap that apparently clips to the top of the boots or shoes to keep it form riding up and exposing the top of her feet.

And that's about it! Another great costume from the growing Kes Army.

I will be adding more costumes in short order to keep this going. They will be added in the order of their appearance. The next up is from "Phage" and about 13 other episodes. It's probably the most worn costume of all of them. I also plan to generate a list of the costumes and which episodes they appeared in but that's a lot of Voyager for one person..... you know?

Costume #2: Maroon and Tan

Episodes:

"Caretaker Part II"

"Eye of the Needle"

"State of Flux"

"Faces"

"Learning Curve"

"Elogium"

"Tattoo"

"Cold Fire"

"Alliances"

"Resolutions"

"Warlord"

This is the second costume worn by Kes. I call this the "Maroon and Tan" due to it's overall appearance but in reality the blouse is maroon, the outer smock is tan and, the jumpsuit is actually pumpkin. Please forgive the white reflective highlight on the arms and legs. This happens when shooting spandex with a flash and it's the only way to get the colors to pop correctly. I shot this 4 times and ultimately I believe it should be done outside in indirect light.

There were two versions of this seen in the first through third seasons of "Voyager". The first incarnation had a high neck on the maroon taffeta blouse and short sleeves on the jumpsuit.

The second had a short neck on the blouse and long sleeves on the jumpsuit. The outer tan piece stayed the same in both styles. This second version is the one pictured above and will be the focus of this post.

And now - On To The Autopsy!

Here are 6 views as it sits fully assembled. The wrap around outer layer is one of the most complicated things I have ever seen on a piece of clothing. It attaches in 3 separate places and each one has to be exact in it's positioning or the whole thing goes out of whack. It took me 2 hours to get it perfect the first time and now after this shoot I can do it in about 2 minutes.

The first order of business is to remove the strap that wraps around to the front from it's catch. When this is done it falls behind and to the left side, exposing the 3 catches that attach the smock under the left arm. After removing these three, the back piece falls to the right and exposes the final set of 3 catches that hold the inside edge in place. When these are removed the whole thing falls off the right shoulder.

Pretty extensive wrap as you can see at the left in the photo above.

Now we are down to the maroon undershirt which has a satin band around the waist. This zips up the back and has the customary "double-hook" and "tucked-zipper" combo.

The shoes were not present with the costume as most were reportedly destroyed rather than match them up to their respective costumes. I have replacements and will add that info when it happens.

Please feel free to email with any comments on what I may have missed or points you would like to see covered next time.

Stay tuned, there will be a LOT more to come.